Surfing in Japan can be fun when there are waves. But if you live far away from the water, even if there are waves, it can be a turn-off. It is expensive to get to the beach…if you want to get there quickly. Otherwise, if you have lots of time to waste and you don’t mind being sleep deprived, you can drive there overnight along the side roads. It may take you several hours extra to get there, but you will save lots of money. Also, if you take this route and try to get some sleep before you go out in the water, you may find yourself waking up after the dawn patrol has already had their session, the wind has already picked up and the crowds of locals and others venturing to the beaches have already swarmed in.

I was born and raised in Florida most of my life, a few years in North Carolina also helped hone my personality. After high school, my family and I moved out to California where we had family. I went to college, surfed and played sports. Life in CA was amazingly different from the east coast. The people were different…and still are…and the surf is much different.

My friends and I used to get up every morning, at least when there was surf, and hit the beaches, no matter what coast I lived. Our favorites spots were … (For those of you who surf, you can understand I can’t release to the world our favorite surf spots, even if I no longer surf them and the places have become zooed out.) But now that I live so stinking far away from the beach, it is a chore.

First of all, it is really difficult to find if there are waves or not. I hate going to the beach and not having waves!! The last time I went surfing in Japan, I went with a friend when the temps were already starting to dip way down at night. It was November. We got to the beach and the waves were ankle-snappers. Tiny! Ok, they were big enough to ride on, but not on the board that I had borrowed. It was only a 5′8″. I weighed 170lbs. Now, do you think, considering the waves were extremely small, that I was able to catch all that many waves? No way! I caught a few, but most of them died out right away because it was such mushy surf. Anyhow, I didn’t stay in the water long because I only had a spring suit. I didn’t complain though. I was happy to get out there and at least try and catch some waves. I only complain now because I can. Still, I would do it all again. I love the water and I love to surf.

I went surfing last week, only my second time after living in Japan for 10 years. That is a huge difference from my lifestyle in America. I went with a friend to Ise. This time there were actually waves that had some power, even though they were still small. The surf was about 2 to 3 feet, not like my last trip to the Japan Sea. The waves did close out quickly though. But overall, it was fun. Getting out there, catching however many waves I caught and getting wet made my day. But when I got home and calculated all my expenses, I was so bummed out. I had spent 7000 yen to go surfing and that was only my half. My friend that went with me spent about the same amount. Not including food, we both spent about 14,000 yen in gas and toll fees.

If I were rich, I wouldn’t be so bothered, but I’m not. I guess I will have to save up some more money so I can go again. Hopefully, it won’t take another year or so for me to get out there.

Actually, since I sold all my boards in America before my move here and am currently boardless, it might be a little while longer before I get out in the surf again, at least if I want to surf on a board that is the right size for me. The board I surfed on last week was a good board, but a little small, 6′3″. Considering I have gained weight from inactivity here in Japan, I need something about 6′6″. So I will have to save up for a new surfboard. Of course, I will buy mine from abroad since they are so expensive here, or find one secondhand.

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